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 | 915 15th St. NW (202) 737-4445 Hours of Operation and Prices Other Information |
But there is nothing modest about chef Gerard Pangaud's talent. Those scallops are so succulent and their fluffy and buttery parsley puree so vibrant that conversation stops as people react to their first bite. The vegetable ragout has an amazing quality: Each vegetable - asparagus, turnips, lentils, mushrooms and more - retains its firmness and flavor as if it has been cooked briefly and intact, yet all meld as if they had been simmered together with their pungent spices for days. It's a dish to convert the meat lover. On the other hand, roasted rack of veal is coddled with slow and careful cooking and garnished with a jewel of salsify-wrapped vegetables. Salmon, too, is cooked slowly so that its flesh barely gels, a beautiful texture. Then there are three different preparations of foie gras, as well as lobster in ravioli or poached with a flowery ginger-lime-sauternes sauce. And, keeping pace with the savories' quality, there are light and fragrant desserts, from a blood-orange soup to a lemon crepe souffl, plus a sweet hint of the tropics in the fragile, crisp napoleon of pineapple, mango, coconut and caramel.
Gerard's has dignity but no stuffiness, a honed menu that is as fascinating as many vastly larger. It's the kind of restaurant every gastronome hopes to have on a list of the little-known treasures of Paris.
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